| VOYAGES
ET EXPEDITIONS - Montagnes des Andes |
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LES
6.000m DES ANDES
THE 6.000m ANDEAN PEAKS
LOS 6.000m DE LOS ANDES |
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Les 6.000 et plus des Andes sont
réunis dans les Andes tropicales,
c'est-à-dire, les hauts plateaux
don le nom générique
en ai l’altiplano. De l’Equateur
au nord du Chili et de l’Argentine,
passant par le Pérou et la
Bolivie, une extension formidable
de sommets formant une longue barrière
de glace et roches. Certains sont
de type volcaniques, les autres
ont atteint leur pleine maturité
avec le plissement des plaques tectoniques.
Mais toutes ces montagnes ont pour
elles la beauté adjointe
a la sévérité,
toutes sont grandiose dans un contexte
géographique des plus extraordinaire.
Pourtant, nous ne connaissons que
quelques unes dont le nom apparaît
en catalogue touristiques ou revues
de voyages ou simplement au cours
de reportages transmis sur les chaînes
de Tv. Il est évident que
ce sont toujours les même
nom de montagnes, celles qui par
le hasard du temps et modes font
sans cesse la une.
Et bien non ! Ces 6000m sont nombreux
et peut être ne vous dirons
t-ils rien?. Alors a titre d’hommage
pour ces grandes inconnues, si hautes
et solitaires en voici la liste
:
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Aconcagua: 6.960m/22.828ft (Argentina) –
Ojos del Salado: 6.885m/ 22.528ft (Chile/ Argentina)
– Pissis: 6.779m/22.235ft (Argentina)
– Mercedario: 6.770m/22.205ft (Argentina)
– Huascaran Sur: 6.768m/25.479ft (Perú)
– Llullaiyacu:6.723m/22.051ft (Argentina/Chile)
– Inonimado: 6660m (Argentina) –
Huascaran Norte: 6.655m (perú) –
Yerupaja: 6.634m/21.759ft (Perú) –
Tres Cruces. Central: 6.620m/21.713ft (Chile)
– Corupuna: 6.614m/21.693ft (Perú)
– Incahuasi: 6.601m/21.651ft (Chile/ Argentina)
– Tupungato: 6.550m/21.484ft (Chile/ Argentina)
– Sajama: 6.542m/21.457ft (Bolivia) –
Yerupara Sur: 6.515m/21.369ft (Perú)
– Nacimiento: 6.493m/21.297ft (Argentina)
– El Muerto: 6.476m/21.241ft (Chile) –
Illimani Sur: 6.462m/21.195ft (Bolivia) –
Sarmiento: 6.440m/21.123ft (Argentina) –
Ancohuma: 6.427m/21.080ft (Bolivia) –
Lagunas Bravas: 6.412m/21.031ft (Chile) –
Bonete: 6.412m/21.031ft (Argentina) –
Cerro La Ramada: 6.410m/21.024ft (Argentina–Chopicalqui:6.400m/20.992ft
(Perú)–Laudo: 6.400m/20.992ft (Argentina)
– Huantsan Sur: 6.395m/20.975ft (Perú)
– Huandoy Norte:
6.395m/20.975ft(Perú)–Ausangate:6.384m/20.939ft(Perú)–Toro:6.380m
(Chile/Argentina)

Illimani Norte: 6.380m (Bolivia) – Antofaya:
6.370m (Argentina) – Illampú: 6.362m
(Bolivia) – Ampato: 6.360m (Perú)
– Huandoy Oeste: 6.356m (Perú)
– Tres Cruces Sur: 6.356m (Chile/ Argentina)
– Siulá: 6.352m/ 20.834ft (Perú)
- Acay: 6.340m (Argentina) – La Ramada:
6.330m (Argentina) Paranicota Payachata Sur:
6.222m (Bolivia) – Solimana: 6.323m (Perú)
– Totales: 6.323 (Chile/ Argentina) –
Veladero: 6.318m (Chile/ Argentina) –
Cachi: 6.310m (Argentina) – Condor: 6.300m
(Argentina) – Illimani Central: 6.280m
(Bolivia) - Palcajaru Este: 6.274m (Perú)
– Chimborazo: 6.272m (Ecuador) –
Salcantay: 6.271m (Perú) – Arroz:
6.270m (Perú) – Siulá central:
6.265m (Peru) – Santa Cruz: 6.259m (Perú)
– Olivares: 6.252m (Chile/ Argentina)
– Pular: 6.225m (Chile) – Pomerape.
Payachata Norte: 6.222m (Bolivia/ Chile) –
Chinchey: 6.222m (Perú) - Patos: 6.218m
(Argentina) – Haukaña: 6.206m (Bolivia)
– Copa Sur: 6.203m (Perú) - Ausangate
Sur: 6.200m (Perú) - Huandoy Este: 6.200m
(Perú) – Solo: 6.189m (Chile/ Argentina)
– Copa Norte: 6.173m (Perú) - Pirámide
Kolla Kollu/ Illimani: 6.175m (Bolivia) –
San pedro: 6.165m (Chile) – Ranrapalca:
6.162m (Perú) – Huandoy Sur: 6.160m
(Perú) – Quevar: 6.160m (Argentina)
– Pucaranra: 6.147m (Perú) –
Sarapo: 6.143m (Perú) – Jatunhuma:
6.142m (Perú) – Ermitaño:
6.140m (Chile) – Honduras: 6.140m (Argentina)
– Alma Negra: 6.134m (Argentina) ––
Reclus: 6.130m (Argentina) – Jirishanca
Sur: 6.126m (Perú) – Hualcán
Norte: 6.125m (Perú) – Yerupaja
Chico: 6.121m (Perú) – Chacararaju
Norte: 6.120m (Perú) – Famalina:
6.120m (Argentina) – La Mesa: 6.120m (Argentina)
– Chearoco: 6.118m (Bolivia) – Ancanquilcha:
6.117m (Chile) – Huantsan Norte: 6.113m/
(Perú) – Colquecruz: 6.111m (Perú)
– Juncal: 6.110m (Chile/ Argentina) –
Cumbre Negra: 6.110m (Chile) – Marmolejo:
6.100m (Chile/ Argentina) – Quitoraju:
6.100m (Perú) – Purcahica Sur:
6.100m (perú) – Huayna Potosí:
6.094m (Bolivia) – Baya: 6.094m (Bolivia/
Chile) – Chearoco II: 6.090m (Bolivia)
- Huallatiri: 6.087m (Bolivia/ Chile) –
Arácar: 6.082m (Argentina) – Chachani:
6.082m/19.948ft (Perú) – Siulá
Sur: 6.080m (Perú) – Chachacomani:
6.074m/19.922ft (Bolivia) –– Copiapo:
6.072m Chile) – Pumasilli: 6.070m/19.909ft
(Perú) – Jatunriti: 6.067m (Perú)
– Sierra Grande Norte: 6.066m (Argentina)
– Salín: 6.060m (Chile) –
Chañi: 6.060m (Argentina) – Chachacomani
Sur: 6.058m (Bolivia) - Huayna Illampu: 6.056m
(Bolivia) – Lloca de Ancohuma: 6.055m/19.860ft
(Bolivia) – Yacuma IV: 6.050m19.844ft
(Bolivia) – Yacuma III: 6.050m (Bolivia)
- Pico Polaco: 6.050m19.844ft (Agentina) - Pico
Del Norte: 6.050m19.844ft (Bolivia) –
Plomo: 6.050m/19.844ft (Argentina) – Palcaraju:
6.050m19.844ft (Perú) – Pili: 6.050m19.844ft
(Vhile) – Acotango: 6.050m19.844ft (Bolivia/Chile)
– Pucahirca Norte: 6.050m/19.844ft) –
Cerros Colorados: 6.049m/19.844ft (Bolivia/
Chile) – Ancoramachi: 6.045m/19.827ft
(Chile) - Palpana: 6.045m19.824ft (Chile) –
Chaupi Orco Norte: 6.044m/19.824ft (Bolivia/
Perú) – Rio Negro: 6.040m (Chile)
– Rasac: 6.040m (Perú) –
Contrahierbas: 6.036m/19.792ft (Perú)
– Tres Cruces Norte: 6.036m/19.792ft (Chile)
– Cayangata I: 6.035/19.948 (Perú)
– Sierra Grande Sur: 6.034m/19.791ft (Argentina)
– Tocllaraju: 6.032m/19.784ft (Perú)
– Pico del Norte: 6.030m (Perú)
– Socompa: 6.030m/ 19.778ft (Chile/ Argentina)
– Artesonraju: 6.025m (Perú/ Pérou)
– Caraz Parón: 6.025m (Perú)
– Caraz Santa Cruz: 6.020m/19.45ft (Perú/
Pérou) – Peñas Blanca: 6.020m
(Chile) – Incahuasi Chico: 6.010m/ 19.712ft
(Argentina) – Pucahirca Central: 6.010m/19.712ft
(Perú) – Ochaquis: 6.010m (Argentina)
– Yayaman: 6.007m/ 19.7002ft (Perú)
– San Francisco: 6.005m (Chile/ Argentina)
– Chaupi Orco Norte: 6.000m/19.680ft (Bolivia/
Chile) – Pisco: 6.000m/19.680ft (Perú)
– Chacaraju Este: 6.000m/19.680ft (Perú/
Pérou)
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> Bibliographie Andine/Bolivie |
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| VOYAGES
ET EXPEDITIONS - Cordillère Occidentale |
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Bibliografía
Andina/Bolivia
Andean/Bolivia Bibliography
Bibliographie Andine/Bolivie Sélection
de références
CAI – TCI “Alpinismo
Italiano nel mundo, Milano” 1935, 1953, 1972,
1975 - Stan Shepard to Pieter Crow 1986 - Sigfrid
Neumann, Quer Durch, Excerpts from his 1930 attempt
on Sajama – “Sajama yields Without fight
to Coloradans” Danver post, June 1986 –
Alain Mesili “Notas bibliograficas, CAB - Ultima
Hora 1976” - “Thomas Polemus misteriosa
desaparicion en Sajama” la Razon Agosto 1946
- “Expeditcion al Sajama 1947” Notas Bolivianas
- “Sajama– Bolivia’s Highest Peak”
Summit, May, 1972 –Wilfrid Kuehm. “Neue
Bergfahrten in Ekuador und Bolivien” Zeitschrift
des Deutschen und Oestereichischen Alpenvereins, 1940-
T. Ifor Rees “ Sajama” 1960 – Joseph
Prem “Climbing in the Bolivian Andes, 1939”
American Alpine Journal 1945 – Hans Ertl “our
Climbs in Bolivia” mountain World 1953 –
“Bolivian Andes: Third Ascent of Mt. Sajama”
Alpine Journal, 1947 – “Route Diagram
on Sajama” from Die Alpen 1978 - Alain Mesili:
“Notas sobre el Sajama con Hans Ertl y F. Ahlfeld”
Presencia, 1973. Alfred Horeschowsky “l’expedition
aux Andes du Club Alpin Allemand et Autrichien”
Alpinismus, 1929. Arnold Heim,“Hochgebirgssport
in Bolivia” Die Alpen, 1948 pp 397-399. Albert
Bauer “Meine Besteigung des Payachatas (Parinacota)
6,330m Ueber Meer” May 1939. Bibliographical
notes on Joseph Prem, compiled by Pieter Crow 1983.
Juan Pablo Ando: Plan de manejo túristico del
parque Nacional Sajama. 1996. Tony Morrison Pathways
to the Gods: The Misterry of the Andeas Lines, Chicago
1988.
Mountaineering Journals (Sajama, Pomerata and Parinacota)
AAAJ, 1963, p 428 - AAJ, 1964-1965,
p 460-61 – AAJ, 1940-1942 p 31-34 : “The
ascen of Mt. Parinacota” by J. Prem (6330m;
W. Cord) – AAJ, 1987, p 203 – AAJ, 1975-76
p 181 note: Rafael Martinez, Federación de
Andinismo de chile - AAJ, 1970-71 p (?) -
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> Bibliographie Andine/Bolivie |
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| VOYAGES
ET EXPEDITIONS - Cordillère Apolobamba |
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Sélection de références
Bolivian Army 1932, climbing Bolivian
Side – Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpen-vereins,
1957 (1962), 95-107. EAC Handbook 43 – AAJ 11(1958),102
– Climbing peaks on the Perú-Bolivia
border: AAJ 13 (1962), 252 – AAJ 1959, 321-322
-– “En la Cordillera Apolobamba”
revista Peruana de Andinismo, 1958, 1966, 1968 –
Sangaku 57 (1962), 21-65 Japanese Expedition - Letter
regarding “Cordillera Apolobamba” Die
Alpen, 1974- “Cordillera Apolobamba” note
on Alpine Journal, 1959, pp 125-126 – Alain
Mesili: Apolobamba Norte, Articulos CAB 1974 - Dr
Richard Berger, Kelheim “JDAV- Expedition Bolivien
1995” Die Alpen 1960/1963/1970- American Alpine
Journal, 1955/ 1960/1968/1970/1980/1986 – First
base camp in Cupi Orco Exploration region, Japanese
expedition 1961 - Climbing Cololo and numerous peaks
in the Pupuya Group Japanese Expedition 1965 - Desnivel,
1999/2002. Bolivian Expedition: Southampton University
Mountaineering Club 1992. - British Mountaineering
Council 2002.
Apolobamba Groups, with additional material from Phil
Amos, Erik Monasterio, Steve Richardson, Marcello
Sanguineti, Yossi brain in the “High Mountain
Info ” 1997. This northerly group of mountains,
which lies on the Peru/Bolivian border, received an
unprecedented number of British Expedition during
1997/ 1999/ 2002 (High Mountain Info. U.K).
J. Curran, “Cordillera Apolobamba the first
ascent of Palomani Tranca (1986). JDAV-Expedition
Bolivien (Chaupi Orcko 1995) - Gross, K. “Oberfrankische
Anden - Expedition 1968” Jahrbuch, DAV. 94/1969
pp183-192. G. Pratt “Nudo de Apolobamba”
AAJ, 12, 1960 pp 37-42 – M. Roldán “Triunfo
de la Expedición Manresana del CEC. Bages a
los Andes Bolivianos, Catalunya, Barcelona 1969 –
W. Melbourne “The Imperial College Expedition
to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959 – “Apolobamba
range” in rivista Mensile, 1959 pp 245-246
Maps/
Mapas/ Cartes
There are no maps on the Apolobamba
in Bolivia. There is a sketch map, by W.H. Melbourne,
1959. Also there is the map by the British Royal Geographic
Society of 1911, Royal Geographical Society, border
survey 1918 – Percy Harrison Fawcett map 1919
- DAV maps 1957.- AAJ 1960 - Sangaku 1962 –
CAI, Italy, 1982, 367 – Southampton University,
1992 – Loughborough Students Andes Expedition
1989 – Yorkshire Ramblers Club Expedition Report
1988 - Paul Hudson 1993. La Rinconada 1:100.000 (Lima
Perú)
Akamani, sheet 5748- I. Scale 1: 50.000. However,
this map has many errors. IGM: Pelechuco Series H632
Sheet: 3041, 1997
Bolivian Army 1932, climbing Bolivian Side –
Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpen-vereins, 1957 (1962),
95-107. EAC Handbook 43 – AAJ 11(1958), 102
– Climbing peaks on the perú-Bolivia
border: AAJ 13 (1962), 252 – AAJ 1959, 321-322
– “En la Cordillera Apolobamba”
revista Peruana de Andinismo, 1958, 1966, 1968 –
Sangaku 57 (1962), 21-65 Japanese Expedition - Letter
regarding “Cordillera Apolobamba” Die
Alpen, 1974- “Cordillera Apolobamba” note
on Alpine Journal, 1959, pp 125-126 – Alain
Mesili: Apolobamba Norte, Articulos CAB 1974 - Dr
Richard Berger, Kelheim “JDAV- Expedition Bolivien
1995” Die Alpen 1960/1963/1970- American Alpine
Journal, 1955/ 1960/1968/1970/1980/1986 – First
base camp in Cupi Orco Exploration region, Japanese
expedition 1961 - Climbing Cololo and numerous peaks
in the Pupuya Group Japanese Expedition 1965 - Desnivel,
1999/2002. Bolivian Expedition: Southampton University
Mountaineering Club 1992. - British Mountaineering
Council 2002.Apolobamba groups, with additional material
from Phil Amos, Erik Monasterio, Steve Richardson,
Marcello Sanguineti, Yossi brain in the “High
Mountain Info ” 1997. This northerly group of
mountains, which lies on the Peru/Bolivian border,
received an unprecedented number of British Expedition
during 1997/ 1999/ 2002 (High Mountain Info. U.K).
J. Curran, “Cordillera Apolobamba the first
ascent of Palomani Tranca (1986). JDAV-Expedition
Bolivien (Chaupi Orcko 1995) - Gross, K. “Oberfrankische
Anden - Expedition 1968” Jahrbuch, DAV. 94/1969
pp183-192. G. Pratt “Nudo de Apolobamba”
AAJ, 12, 1960 pp 37-42 – M. Roldán “Triunfo
de la Expedición Manresana del CEC. Bages a
los Andes Bolivianos, Catalunya, Barcelona 1969 –
W. Melbourne “The Imperial College Expedition
to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959 – “Apolobamba
range” in rivista Mensile, 1959 pp 245-246 -
Campese, O. ‘Due spedizioni nell’ Apolobamba
Boliviane’. RM, (1982): 365-72.
-Gulz, F. ‘Neue Bergfahrten in den Anden’.
Oesterreichische Alpenzeitung, (Mar.1975): 21-22.
Summary of peaks climbed in the Apolobamba.
-Hasse, D. ‘Zur Anden-Information (2/70)’.
Alpinismus, (May, 1970): 9. Berlin expedition to Apolobamba.
-Smith, M. ‘Cololo: an ascent in the Apolobamba’,
South American Explorer no.22 (Aug.1989): 12-17.
-Karl, W. ‘Anden-Kundfahrt 1957 des Sektion
Berchtesgaden des Deutsche Alpen-vereins’.
Jahr,DAV, 83 (1958): 94-107. - Bratt, G. ‘Nudo
de Apolobamba’. AAJ, 12 (1960): 37-42.
Gross, K. ‘Oberfrankische Anden-Expedition 1968’.
Jahrbuch, D.A.V., 94 (1969): 183-92.
-Melbourne, W. ‘The Imperial College expedition
to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959’. AJ, 65 (1960):
175-81. -[Oberfrankische Anden-Expedition 1968] Oberfrankische
Verlauf und Selected References/
- Durville, J. ‘Ascension de l’Ananea
(Cordillera Apolobamba,Perou)’. LA, 50 (1974):
79-80.
- Duttle-Albrecht, H. ‘Ananea’. LA, 48
(1972): 157-9.
Ergebnisse -Bamberg: Eigenverlag, 1968. Expedition
report. -Rold N, M. ‘Triunfo de la Expedicion
Manresana del C.E.C. Bages a los Andes Bolivianos’.
Centro Excursionista de Catalunya, Barcelona, Montaña,
n.120-124 (Mar-Dec.1969): 397 401. -Curran, J. ‘Cordillera
Apolobamba-the first ascent of Palomani Tranca’.
AJ, 91 (1986): 135-8. -Gross, K. ‘Oberfrankische
Anden-Expedition 1968’. Jahr, DAV, 94 (1969):
183-92. -Karl, W. ‘Anden-Kundfahrt 1957 des
Sektion Berchtesgaden des Deutsche Alpen-vereins’.
Jahr,
-DAV, 83 (1958): 94-107. [Oberfrankische Anden-Expedition
1968] Oberfrankische ... Verlauf und Ergebnisse. Bamberg:
Eigenverlag, 1968. Expedition report. -Weinzierl,
W. ‘Munich Andean expedition’. AAJ, 17
(1970): 32-37. Includes Apolobamba. AAC-CRS AAC American
Alpine Club Rockies Section – AMC American Mountaineering
Center –

Mountaineering Journal Sources
(Principal sources: Santhampton University
Mountaineering Club 1992 – Loughborough students
Andes Expedition report 1989)
1932 Bolivian Army, Bolivian side Climbing Palomani
Grande – 1957 German Bolivian side, base camp
West paso Osipal, Jahrbuch des Deutschen Alpen- Vereins´57
(1962), 95-107 (Eac Handbook´43 –AAJ 11
1959 321-322 – 1958 Italian Peruvian side: Climbing
peaks on the Peru-Bolivia border AAJ (1959 321-322)
AAJ 13 (1962 252 – 1959 British Bolivian side.
Base camp in Tuichi valley between Matchu Sunchi Coochi
and Soral ridge (AAJ 12 1960-61) 37-42 – 1961
Japanese Bolivian side First basecamp in Chaupi Orco
near Puyo Puyo and camps SW of Hualancalloc at lago
Canisaya. Sangaku 57 (1962) 21-65 and AAJ 13 (1962)
253-4 – 1965 Japanese Expedition Climbed cololo
and numerous peaks in the Pupuya group. Sangaku 62
(19667), 14-18 (AAJ 15 (1967), 14-18 – 1968
German Expedition Bolivian side basecamp in Tuichi
valley climbed in Chaupi Orco, Matchu Suchi Coochi
and Katantica groups. (AAJ 16 (1969) 443. AJ 74 (1969)
241 – 1969 German Expedition Bilivian side climbed
in Chaupi Orco and Soral groups and briefly from paso
Pelechuco. AAJ 17 (1970), 32-7, 154-79 / AJ (1970),
220 – 1970 American Expedition Bolivia side
basecamp in Tuichi valley, near Spanish campsite.
AAJ (1971), 424 – 1972 Canadian Expedition Bolivian
side Soral group AAJ 18 (1972) 176 - 1972 Swiss Expedition
Peruvian side – 1973 French Expedition Peruvian
side climbed SW face Ananea – 1974 German Expedition
Bolivian side based in paso Pelechuco AAJ (1975),
177-80 – 1974 Swiss Expedition Peruvian side
– 1978 french Expedition Bolivian side attempted
Acamani and other peaks in the Pupuya group AAJ 22
(1979), 246-7 – 1981 Italian Expedition Bolivian
side climbed in Soral group and near Pelechuco-Haracha,
basecamps East of Chaupiu Orco, in Soral group and
in paso Pelechuco. Revista del CAI, 101, 1982 / AAJ
26 (1984), 209 – 1983 French Expedition Peruvian
side Climbed Ananea and border peaks, AAJ 1984, 209
– 1985 British Expedition Peruvian side basecamp
West of Palomani Tranca – 1986 American Expedition
Bolivian side basecamp West of Cololo, SE of lago
Khello AAJ 29 (1987), 198-201 – 1988 British
Expedition, Bolivian side Basecamp at Lago Pauoche
W of Cololo - 1989 British Expedition, Bolivian side
basecamp in Padso Osipal South of Cololo – 1989
British Expedition, Bolivian side Basecamp at Lago
Nubi West of Cololo and Lago Suches South West of
Palomani Grande.
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> Bibliographie Andine/Bolivie |
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| VOYAGES
ET EXPEDITIONS - Cordillère Quimza Cruz |
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Sélection de références
Hoek. H. “Bergfahrten in Bolivia”
Zeit. DOEAV, 1905, 1906, 1907 – “Exploration
of Bolivia” GJ 25, PP 498-513 – Karl Seelig
“Berge der Welt, 1948” – “
A Yob’s- Eyes View of the Quimza Cruz”
American Alpine Journal 1969 – “ Prof.
Dr Theodore Herzog” mitteilungen des Deutschen
und Oesterreischichen Alpenvereins, Sep 1950 –
Notes onTheodore Herzog’s “ Bergfahrten
in Suedamerika” 1925 - Excerpts from Theodore
Herzog “ Vom Urwald zu den Gletschern der Kordillere”
1923 and “Der Kampf um die Weltberge”
1934 – Letter from Ken Wilson to Evelio Echevarria,
May 1984 - Wilfrid Kuhm “Bolivien, Berge der
Welt, 1948” - Joseph Prem “Climbing in
the Bolivian Andes, 1939” American Alpine Journal,
1945 – letter from Evelio Echevarria to Pieter
Crow 1984 – H. Hoek “Besteigung des Cerro
Tacora” Oesterreischische Alpenzeitung,”
1905 - J. Prem “ Notas de viajes sobre la Cordillera
Occidental de Bolivia” Boletin de la Sociedad
Geografíca de la Paz” 1931 – Evelio
Echevarria “Las Ascensiones Andinas de Erwin
Hein” Andina valparaiso, Chile, 1969 –
1972, PP 34-36 – Friedrich Ahlfeld “ Die
Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” ZDOAV, 1932, pp 79-94
- Letter from Pieter Crow to F. Ahlfeld, 1982/1983
- Excerpts from Pietro Meciani’s Articles on
the Andes in Rivista Mensile: Santa Vera Cruz, Quimza
Cruz 1950/1960 – Evelio Echevarria “Early
American Ascents in the Andes, 1854 – 1950”
AAJ 1986 - John Thackray “Two Bolivian Climbs”
AAJ, 1975 – Evelio Echevarria “A Survey
of Andean Ascents: Addenda and Corrigenda to part
I “ AAJ 1961 – 1970 and 1964 – Evelio
Echevarria “ Ascents in the Quimza Cruz”
AAJ 1970 - Thellaeche, J “Viaje de exploracion
a la Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” la Paz, revista
de Andinismo y excursion N° 6, 1983 – Javier
Sanchez revista Desnivel “ Santa Vera Cruz”
2002. Javier Sanchez: Arqueologia de Altuta, 2003.-
Activity in la Choco Cota. American Alpine Journal
1998, Javier Sánchez – Santa Vera Cruz.
American Alpine Journal 2000, Javier Sánchez
– “Bolivia” American Alpine Journal
2001, Javier Sánchez – Quimza Cruz. “Nevados
de Choco Cota”. Revista Desnivel 2000, Javier
Sánchez – “Andinistas Aymaras”
Revista Desnivel, Javier Sánchez – “Renewed
interest in the Santa Vera Cruz” High Magazine,
Javier Sánchez. Denys Sanjinés “
Quimza Cruz” 2003, La Paz Bolivia.
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Choquetanga et Araca
Sélection de références
Hoek. H. “Bergfahrten in Bolivia”
Zeit. DOEAV, 1905, 1906, 1907 – “Exploration
of Bolivia” GJ 25, PP 498-513 – Karl Seelig
“Berge der Welt, 1948” – “
A Yob’s- Eyes View of the Quimza Cruz”
American Alpine Journal 1969 – “ Prof.
Dr Theodore Herzog” mitteilungen des Deutschen
und Oesterreischichen Alpenvereins, Sep 1950 –
Notes onTheodore Herzog’s “ Bergfahrten
in Suedamerika” 1925 - Excerpts from Theodore
Herzog “ Vom Urwald zu den Gletschern der Kordillere”
1923 and “Der Kampf um die Weltberge”
1934 – Letter from Ken Wilson to Evelio Echevarria,
May 1984 - Wilfrid Kuhm “Bolivien, Berge der
Welt, 1948” - Joseph Prem “Climbing in
the Bolivian Andes, 1939” American Alpine Journal,
1945 – letter from Evelio Echevarria to Pieter
Crow 1984 – H. Hoek “Besteigung des Cerro
Tacora” Oesterreischische Alpenzeitung,”
1905 - J. Prem “ Notas de viajes sobre la Cordillera
Occidental de Bolivia” Boletin de la Sociedad
Geografíca de la Paz” 1931 – Evelio
Echevarria “Las Ascensiones Andinas de Erwin
Hein” Andina valparaiso, Chile, 1969 –
1972, PP 34-36 – Friedrich Ahlfeld “ Die
Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” ZDOAV, 1932, pp 79-94
- Letter from Pieter Crow to F. Ahlfeld, 1982/1983
- Excerpts from Pietro Meciani’s Articles on
the Andes in Rivista Mensile: Santa Vera Cruz, Quimza
Cruz 1950/1960 – Evelio Echevarria “Early
American Ascents in the Andes, 1854 – 1950”
AAJ 1986 - John Thackray “Two Bolivian Climbs”
AAJ, 1975 – Evelio Echevarria “A Survey
of Andean Ascents: Addenda and Corrigenda to part
I “ AAJ 1961 – 1970 and 1964 – Evelio
Echevarria “ Ascents in the Quimza Cruz”
AAJ 1970 - Thellaeche, J “Viaje de exploracion
a la Cordillera de Quimza Cruz” la Paz, revista
de Andinismo y excursion N° 6, 1983 – Javier
Sanchez revista Desnivel “ Santa Vera Cruz”
2002. Javier Sanchez: Arqueologia de Altuta, 2003.-
Activity in la Choco Cota. American Alpine Journal
1998, Javier Sánchez – Santa Vera Cruz.
American Alpine Journal 2000, Javier Sánchez
– “Bolivia” American Alpine Journal
2001, Javier Sánchez – Quimza Cruz. “Nevados
de Choco Cota”. Revista Desnivel 2000, Javier
Sánchez – “Andinistas Aymaras”
Revista Desnivel, Javier Sánchez – “Renewed
interest in the Santa Vera Cruz” High Magazine,
Javier Sánchez. Denys Sanjinés “
Quimza Cruz” 2003, La Paz Bolivia.
Mountaineering Journals
Climbing in the Bolivian Andes: 1939
AAJ, 1943-1945 p 322-327 - AAJ, 1962, p 191 - AAJ,
1969, p 281-284 – AAJ, 1970: Cronica de la cordillera
Quimza Cruz por Evelio Echevarria - AAJ, 1965, p 191
– Araca and Choquetanga Groups: AAJ, 1988, p
166-167 – Choquetanga: AAJ, 1968 – 1969
p 444 / AAJ, 1990 p 200/ AAJ, 1991 P 193/ AAJ, 1992
p 157-159 – Laramcota Valley: AAJ, 1994 p 164
– German expeditions 1969: AJ, 1970 p 223 –
Northern Araca group map: AAJ, 1970 -71 p 168-170
and AAJ, 1965 p 456 - AAJ, 1982 p 190 note: Judy Sterner
Canadian Alpine Journal – AAJ, 1990 p 200 note:
Evelio Echevarria -
Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes
I.G.M. 1:50:000, Serie 731 Sheets: 6143 - III, 6142
- IV, 6043 - II, 6143 - II.
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| VOYAGES
ET EXPEDITIONS - Illampu et Ancohuma |
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Sélection de références
Hans Ertl, heute “Der Bergsteiger,
June 1975, 2 pp. “Dem Bergvagabunden”
Zum70. Geburtstag” Der Bertsteiger, march 1970,
1 p. - Alpine Journal may 1968, 5 pp – “El
major Andinista Boliviano en 1946” CAB, La Paz
- “Report of the University College, Bang Andean
Expedition”, 1966 pp - “Report Rudolf
Dienst of the Illampu massif” 1937.
Mountaineering in Bolivia “ Archives of Pieter
Crow, Photocopied for Liam O’Brien, August 15,
1997 - “From Pieter Crow to Alain Mesili”
15 April 1984, 1p – From Alain Mesili to Pieter
Crow 30 April 1984, 1 p - From Pieter Crow to Malcolm
Griffin, 2 August 1984, 1 p - Note on Alfred Horeschofsky,
“Der Bergsteiger” march 1973 – “
The Reading University Andean Expedition” 1962,
Alpine Journal – “Ancohuma’s South
– Southeast Ridge” American Alpine Journal,
1969 - “ Cordillera real, 1972 Sangaku, Japan
1973, 1965, 1970 – 71 – “Soberbio
Illampu” Campo abierto/ Quito, August –
Dec 1982 10 pp – “South American Odyssey”
Canadian Alpine Journal, 1980 – “Climbing
in Bolivia” Journal of the Mountain Club of
South Africa, 1963 – “Two Bolivian Climbs,
“ American Alpine Journal, 1975 – “Cordillera
Real” Die Alpen, 1965 - Lord M. Conway “
Mountain Memories.” London and New York 1920
– M. Conway “ The Bolivian Andes: A Record
of Climbing and Exploration in the Cordillera Real
in the Years 1898 and 1900 “ - M. Conway, “
Notes on map of the Cordillera real, Bolivia”
Geography Journal, vol. XV, PP 528 - Peter Crow “
A History of Mountaineering in the Cordillera Real
( 1898 – 1928 and 1929 – 1950)”
Summit Magazine, June 1, 1983, USA - Alain Mesili
“ El Nuevo Andinismo en Bolivia, en mundo de
los Andes” Presencia 1981 - “The Cordillera
real “ Alpine Journal 1959/ 1960 / 1962 / 1963
/ 1964 / 1967 / 1968 / 1969 / 1972 – “
Chilenos en la Cordillera Real” revista Andina
1954 - “Legends of the High Andes” Alpine
Journal, 1983 - “ Alpinismo Italian Nell Mundo”
1953 - “ Illampu-Nordostgrat” Alpinismus,
April 1972 - Mario fantin “ Italiani sulle Montagne
del mondo” 1968 – “ A Bolivia Couloir
and other Climbers” American Alpine Journal,
1970 - Hans Ertl “ our Climbs in Bolivia”
Mountain World, 1953 – “Notas de Alain
Mesili con Hans Ertl y A. Horeschofsky sobre el Illampu
y sus ascensions desde 1928” CAB, 1976 - From
Evelio Echevarria to Pieter Crow, march 26, 1984 -
Fritz Schmitt “ Hans Ertl” Der Bergsteiger,
Sept 1984 - “ Besteigungen in den Anden von
Friedrich Ahlfeld “ by Pieter Crow, Nov 28,
1982, Jan 20, 1884 - Alfred Horeschowsky “ L’
Expedition aux Andes du Club Alpin Allemand et Autrichien”
Revue Alpinisme, 1929, PP 91-94 – Martin Conway
“Climbs in the Andes in 1898 “ August
1899 PP 509-523, Alpine Journal - Martin Conway “
Excursion al Illampú Sociedad Geografica de
La Paz, Boletin, 1898, PP 191-193 - Pieter Crow “
on Climbing in Bolivia” 1983 – Erwin Hein
“ Eine besteigung des Ancohumas in der Cordellere
Real ” Mitteilungen des DOAV, May 1931, PP 103-106
– Fred Hendel “ report on rescue commission
for Hans Ertl and Hundhammer on Illampu” 1951.
Pieter Crow “bibliographical Notes on Adolf
Schulze” 1977. Revue vertical “ Bolivie/Alain
Mesili, mai 1996, 1997 -France – Revista Desnivel
La Cordillera Real de Bolivia parte 1 Hugo Berrios
parte II Alain Mesili Septienbre 2002 – La montagne
et Alpinisme “La Corrdillere Royale” 1990,
1994 - Alpinisme et Randonnée “ Illimani
et Illampu” 1990.
Ancohuma , Mountaineering Journal
1931: pp 422 – 1945: pp 328
– 1965: 453/ 455 – 1967: 397/ 399, Sketch
maps and topos/ Sketch by Kev Renolds and Lindsay
Griffin: Central Cordillera Real 165 – 1968:
pp 205 – 1969: pp 278/ 280 more illistration
– 1975: 180 – 1978: pp 79 – 1979:
249/ 252 – 1980: 599/ 590/ 591 – 1983:
203 – 1984: 211/ 212 – 1987: 201 –
1992: 159 – 1997: 237/ 239
.
Ancohuma Lloca, 1969: p 280 - 1979: pp 253 –
1980: pp589. 1978: 578/ 579 – Via Normal Cara
Este: (AM: 177t Vía directa este AM: 177t)
- Pilar Oeste: (M: 1978, p 178 and Pilar central AM:
p 178) – Cara Sur Oeste Via normal 1919 (M:
p 174t, 176) – Directo sur 1970 (M: p 174t,
176) – Pilar Nort este 1978 (M: p 174t, 176)
– Japanese expedition, (AAJ, 1965, p 455) –
Nueva Zelandia Expedition (AAJ, 1965, p 453) -
Sélection de références
Shigeo Abe, “Bolivian Andes,
1968” Sugaku 1969, pp 9 - “Notes on Monika
Ertl” 1958, 2 pp - “ The South American
Indian as a Pioneer Alpinist” Alpine Journal,
May 1968, 5 pp – "Henry Hoek" Sportsmann,
Dichter und Gelehrter” Der Bergsteiger, 1974,
1p – “ El 6 de Agosto fue Izada la bandera…Chachacomani
” Gustavo Moeller, Douglas, Moore, 1951, CAB,
La Paz - Henry Hoek, “Mitteilungen des Deutshen
Alpenvereins”, Dec 1951 - “ En la Cordillera
real” revista Anuario Club Andino de bariloche,
Argentina, 1952 – “Auf Eisriesen in Inka-Land“
Der Bergsteiger, Nov 1975 – Expedicion Argentino-Boliviana-Chilena,
Revista Andina, 1949-1951-52 – “ Cordillera
real” Berliner Jubilaeumsexpedition 1969 - CAB
“Informativo Mensual – Condoriri”
april 15, 1941 – W. Khum “ La Primera
Ascension al Condoriri” Revista Geografica Americana
(RGA), march 1941, pp. 157-60 - Hugo Hortnagel “
In den Bolivianishen Andean, Pico del Norte, Illampu,
Casiri, Chearoco” Die Alpin, 1930 pp 324-332
– Letter from Pieter Crow to Jack Miller, August
28, 1984 - Evelio Echevarria “ Las ascensiones
Andinas de Erwin Hein” revista Andina, Chile,
1969-1972, pp 34-36 - Pieter Crow “ Profiles
of Participants on German-Austrian Expedition to the
Cordillera Real” note on 1928 – “
La Spedizione jusgoslava 1964 alla Cordillera real”
Revista Mensile 1966 – “ Note on Bolivia”
in Revista mensile 1957 – “ Note on Bolivia’s
concerning a Lecture by Rudolf Dienst”, from
Zeitschrift des Gesellschaft Zum Erdkundt Berlin,
1929, pp 158-159 - Douglas Moore “En La Cordillera
real de Bolivia” Anuario Club Andino Bariloche,
1952 - “ Several articles on the Yugoslavian
Expedition to the Bolivian Andes 1964” in Planinski
Vestnik, 1965 pp 168 – “ Expedicion Italiana
a los Andes de 1958” Montaña (Centro
Excursionista de Cataluña) sep-Oct 1958, pp
181-182.
Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes
TM- Landsat color Map, series HO32
Sheet 3139, 3239, 3238, 3140,
I.G.M. Sorata Sheet No 5846 I H731 Series, 1:50.00
scale, Warisata Sheet No 5846 11, 1:50.000 scale.
German Alpinism Club – DAV/ map, Cordillera
Real. Illampu 1:50.000
Walter Guzman Cordoba Map
Eschematic Map by Liam O’Brien, Cordillera Real.
Map color 2nd Edition 1998
Sketch Map of the Cordillera Real by Bernardo Guarachi
1998 (Available from Los Amigos del Libro)
Areal photos from IGM (Instituto Geografico Militar)
1973

Calzada/ Chearoco et Chachacomani Mountaineering
Journal
Reading University Expedition 1962, map and peak
list (AJ, 1963, p 219) – Via Normal 1928 (M:
137, 138t) – Cara Este 1973 M: 137, 138t) -
Bvarian Expedition 1985 (AAJ, 1988, p 165 and AAJ,
1990, p 194) – CAI SW spur (AAJ, 1974, p 193)
– Cambridge University (AAJ, 1962-63, p 510-13)
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| VOYAGES
ET EXPEDITIONS - Negruni/ Condoriri |
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Sélection de références
Agnolotti, G. ‘Cordillera Real,
1967’. RM, 86 (1967): 419-27. - Alejos, L. ‘Bolivia:
por los dominios del cóndor’, Pyrenaica,
n. 158 (1990): 3-7. - ‘Auf Eisriesen in Inka-Land’.
Bergsteiger, 42 (1975): 708-11. Condoriri area. -
Bayerische Naturfreunde. Anden-Expedition 1969. Expedition
report. Negruni-Chekapa group. -Berge im Reich des
Sonnengottes. Expedition report. - Konigskordillere
im Land der Inka. Edited by H.Ziegenhardt. Linz: Druck
u.Verlagsanstalt Gutenberg, 1983. Expedition report.
Illampu area & Illimani. - ‘Bergsteigerinvasion
in den AndenÒ. Alpinismus, (1970): 59. Bavarian
1969 expedition. - Bonicelli, A. La spedizione del
C.A.I. di Bergamo alla Cordillera Real nelle Ande
Boliviane. Bergamo, 1969. Peaks in Illampu group.
-Bunting, P. ‘Imperial College Cordillera Real
Expedition 1972’. AJ, 78 (1973): 201-5. -Many
ascents in Illampu region. -Challis, D. ‘Cordillera
Real, 1966’. AJ, 72 (1967): 292-303. University
College North Wales expedition; many ascents in Illampu
region. - Cochran, G. ‘Climbs in the Cordillera
Real’. Appalachia, 33 (1961): 299-304. - Conway,
W.M. The Bolivian Andes: a record of climbing and
exploration in the Cordillera Real. London/New York:
Harper, 1901. - Cotter, E. ‘Once upon a cordillera’.
NZAJ, 21 (1965): 18-38.
-Crow, P. & McWherter, M. ‘The high mountains
of Bolivia [Part 2]’. Summit, 28 (Nov-Dec.1982):
6-10, 25. History of climbing series of articles.
-‘The high mountains of Bolivia - Part 3: Illampu,
Casiri, Chearoco’. Summit 29 (Jul-Aug.1983):
22-25; 29 (Sep-Oct.1983): 26-8. -‘The high mountains
of Bolivia--Part 4: the Cordillera Real (1929-1939)’.
Summit, 30 (May-Jun. 1984): 23-5. [D.A.V., Sektion
Regensburg.] Andenkundfahrt. Report of 1971 expedition.
[-----.] ‘Regensburger Anden-Kundfahrt 1971’.
Jahr,DAV, 97 (1972): 147-9. -Negruni-Hichucota ‘RAK’
peaks. -Dienst, R. ‘Caca-Aca oder Huayna Potosi’.
LA, 2 (1926): 121-7. - In dunkelsten Bolivien. Stuttgart:
Strecker & Schr”der, 1926. -‘Bergfahrten
in Bolivien’. Zeit,DOeAV, 58 (1927): 91-105.
-Doltsch, F. ‘Bolivien’. Jahr,DOeAV, 103
(1978): 190-1. -Drummond, P. ‘Bolivia’s
Royal Range’. AJ, 90 (1985): 172-6. Various
climbs. -Echevarr¡a, E. ‘The Cordillera
Real’. AJ, 64 (1959): 44-53. -Ertl, H. ‘Our
climbs in Bolivia’. MW, (1953): 149-70. -Fritz,
F. ‘Un problema de roca’. Boletin, C.A.Boliviano,
n.4 (Dec.1946): 10-11. - Griffin, M. Tiquimani. Stellenbosch:
Kosmo Pub.,1965. - Guridi, J. ‘Gran Condoriri:
la montaña deseada’, Pyrenaica, n.158
(1990): 8-9. Cord. Real. -Haase, J. ‘Bergopfer
in Bolivien’. Bergsteiger, 12 (1941): 57-8.
Deaths of K o hm & Gahrmann on Illimani. - Hagan,
B. ‘Ancohuma’. CAJ, 52 (1969): 64-67.
- Hasse, D. Cordillera Real: Berliner Jubil„ums
Expedition. Expedition report, 1969. Centenary expedition
to Apolobamba plus climbs on Illampu. - ‘Illampu-S
u dgrat, 1.Begehung. Jubiläumsexpedition zum
100 jóhrigen Bestehen der Alpenvereinssektion
Berlin’. Jahr,DAV, 96 (1971): 157-64 -‘Zur
Anden-InformationÒ. Alpinismus, ? (May 1970):
9. Illus.of routes on Illampu, S. ridge; and -Hechtel,
J. ‘Condoriri - der sch”nste Berg der
Welt’. Alpinismus, 12 (1974): 42-3. -Hein, E.
‘Allein u ber den Illimani-Nordgrat’.
Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929): 54-8.- Herzog, T. ‘Die
andine Kundfahrt des D.u.Oe. Alpenvereins’.
Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929: 1-4.- Hessburg, J. ‘Climbing
in real time: the 1989 American expedition to Bolivia’s
Cordillera Real’, The Mountaineer, (Nov.1989):
8-10.
-Hortnagel, H. ‘In den Bolivianischen Anden’.
LA, 6 (1930): 323-36. -Horeschowsky, A. ‘L’exp‚dition
aux Ande du Club Alpin Allemand et Autrichien’.
Alpinisme, 4 (1929): 91-4. D.Oe.A.V. expedition of
1928. -Hunter, R. ‘The Reading University Andean
Expedition, 1962’. AJ, 68 (1963): 219-24.
‘Illampu-Nordostgrat’. Alpinismus, (Apr.1972):
51-2; (Aug.1972): 46. Notes and illustrations; also
Negruni group. - Isles, D. ‘Ancohuma’s
south-south-east ridge’. AAJ, 16 (1969): 278-80.
- Kom, W. ‘Die Erstbesteigung des Condoriri’’.
Bergsteiger, 12 (1941): 1-7. -Kurz, M. ‘Bolivien’.
BdW, 3 (1948): 359-60. - Laba, R. ÑNorth-east
ridge of Huayna Potos¡’. AAJ, 17 (1970):
53-4. - McWherter, M. ‘The high mountains of
Bolivia: of mountain gods and early exploration’.
Summit, 28 (Jul-Aug.1982): 10-15.
Mesili, A. La Cordillera Real de los Andes-Bolivia.
La Paz/Cochabamba: Ed.Los Amigos del Libro/Werner
Guttentag, 1984. Detailed guidebook to the principal
peaks. Well illustrated. - Miller, J. ‘Huayna
Potos¡: the pleasures of ignorance’. AAJ,
19 (1974): 126-8. ‘Illimani's north-east ridge:
reverence and rape’. AAJ, 21 (1978): 477-83.-
Motte, E.S.G.de la. ‘Illimani and the Nazis’.
AJ, 52 (1940): 250-3.
Nelson, M. ‘Astray in the
Andes’. AJ, 69 (1964): 217-27. First ascents
& traverse of Ancohuma. [Ober o sterreichische
Naturfreunde.] Die Naturfreunde in den Anden. Linz:
Druck u.Verlagsanstalt - Gutenberg, 1973. Report.
Negruni group. - O’Connell, K. ‘South
American odyssey’. CAJ, 63 (1980): 32-5 - Pecher,
R.& Schmiemann, W. The southern Cordillera Real:
a guide for mountaineers, skiers an Walkers. Chur:
Plata Publishing, 1977. Selected climbs & excursions.
- Peck, A. ‘Climbing Mount Sorata’. Appalachia,
11 (1906): 95-110. Attempts in 1903-4. - Pfann, Hans.
‘Bericht u ber die Anden-Expedition des D.und
Oe.Alpenvereins 1928’. Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929):
5-34. - Pivot, D. ‘Initiation Bolivienne’.
La Montagne et Alpinisme, 78 (1982): 286-7. Alla Norte
& Pequeño Alpamayo. - Pizzotti, V. ‘Nella
Real Cordillera Boliviana. La prima salita del Picco
Italia, 5620m. Un tentativo al Huayna Potos¡,
6250m’. RM, 55 (1936): 130-? - ‘Nella
Cordillera Real Boliviana. Il Cerro Mururata’.
RM, 56 (1937): 135-9. - Posada, Albert [& others.]
‘La Cordillera Real de Bolivia’. Pyrena‹ca,
n.132 (1983): 301-9. Illampu group.
-Reinecke, D.R. ‘Climbing in Bolivia’.
JMCSA, 66 (1963): 57-68. Tiquimani, Condoriri, etc.
- Shepard, S. ‘A Bolivian couloir and other
climbs’. AAJ, 17 (1970): 48-52. - Thackray,
J. ‘Two Bolivian climbs’’. AAJ,
20 (1975): 85-94. - Troll, C. ‘Anden und Cordillera
Real’. Zeit,DOeAV, 60 (1929): 35-53. [University
College Bangor.] Andean Expedition, 1966: report.
See also under Challis. - Vandeleur, C. ‘Lord
Conway and Illimani’. AJ, 60 (1955): 172-3.
[W o rtembergische Naturfreunde.] WKE 73. Report.
Negruni group, ‘WKE’ peaks; Casiri, Chearoco,
Illampu. -Zappelli, C. Sulle montagne degli Incas:
spedizione alpinistica sulla Cordillera Real in Bolivia.
Aosta, 1978.
Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes
- IGM sheets 59465- IV, Khara Khota pond sheets 5945
- III, Peñas – sheet 5945 - II.
- Milluni- Walter Guzman Cordoba, Condoriri Negruni
- Liam O'Brien. Sketch of the Cordillera Real- Bolivia,
1998, Deutcher Alpenverrin Edition (DAV)
- Landsat Thematic Mapper (TM) 1990. Scale 1:100.000.
Sheet 3238,
- Walter Guzman Cordoba: Cordillera Central Section
Condoriri
- Sketch map by Bernardo Guarachi, 1998

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| VOYAGES
ET EXPEDITIONS - Huayna Potosi – Illimani
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Sélection de références
“1877 Huayna Potosi Primera
Exploracion y Tentativa Alemana”: Alain Mesili.
- “Monte Aillaico, 5,600m” CAB 1949 -
Rudolf Dienst “ Caca-Aca oder Huayna Potosi
6220m” 1926, pp 4 “ Rudolf Dienst “
Bergfarhrten in Bolivien" Zeitschrift des Deutschen
und Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins, 1927, pp 15 -
Rudolf Dienst “ Vom Pazifik Zum dach der Neuen
Welt” pp 1-30, pp 17 , 141-154, 1927 - “Slowenien
en/ Anden” Alpinismus, feb 1965 – “
Handsketch map of Huayna Potosi, Dienst Route”
1931 - Henry Hoek “The Cordillera de Potosi”
Alpine Journal, feb, 1906 – Fred Hendel “
Diagram routes of Illimani, Huayna Potosi and Chachacomani”
1951- “ Bolivia, Tiquimani 1956” Revista
Andina, jan-jun 1956 - Jack Miller “Huayna Potosi:
The Pleassures of Ignorance,” AAJ 1974 –
Alain Mesili – Ernesto Sanchez: “ Primera
Ascension canaleta Sur al Pico Milluni” Ultma
Hora, 1972, La Paz – Federico Ahlfeld, Alain
Mesili and Werner Guttentag, “Notas sobre Geografía
Andina” Los Amigos del Libro.
Lord Conway “ and Illimani”
Alpine Journal 1955 – Martin Conway “Implorations
in the Bolivian Andes” Geographical Journal,
July 1898, 1899, pp14-34 – Alpine Journal, Nov
1898, “ Note on Ascent of Illimani” PP
241-242 - Pieter Crow Illimani note “ Illimani,
1940, 1941, 1946, 1966, 1967” Published 1975
– “note on Ascent of North Peak of Illimani”
1966 - CAB “ Illimani , April 18, 1940 - CAB
“ Los exploradores Alemanes…” 3
aril, 1940 - CAB “Bandera Alemana en el Illimani”
aril, 1940 – “ Khum y Expedicion ha muerto
en el Illimani” 30 Mayo 1941 - Fred Hendel “
1941, rescue attempt Fred Hendel – “Alain
Mesili y Ernesto Sanchez los andinistas del año”
CAB, 1972 - Fred Hendel “ The North Ridge of
Mt. Illimani June 1966/ 1967 - Alain Mesili, articles
about Illimani, 1971 – Piramide “Sanchez/Mesili,
Illimani” Jill Neate, 1992 - Deutsche Bergsteiger
am Pico del Norte and Illimani” mitteilungen
des Alpenvereins, sep 1950 - “Climbs in the
Cordillera Real” Appalachia, June 1961 - “
Cordillera Real ” revista mensile, Jul-August
1977, mar-April 1978, Jun-Feb 1979. American Alpine
Journal, 1962/ 1965/ 1967/ 1969/ 1972/ 1974/ 1984/
etc. “ Suedamerika-Literatur” Besteigungschronik
der Cordillera Real” 1942 – Alain Mesili
“Nuevas Rutas en el Illimani y Mururata”
Presencia 1976 - Hans Ertl “ El Pico Norte del
Illimani” Anuario Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina,
1951 - Valentino Pizzotti “ Il Cerro Mururata,
5750m Circa” Rivista mensile, April 1937, PP
135-139- Fred Hendel, “Rescue in Illimani 1967”
– Fred Hendel, “Ueber die Unzulaenglichkeit
des Menschlichen Geistes” – “Illimani’s
Northeast ridge: reverence and Rape” American
Alpine Journal, 1978 – American Alpine Journal:
1973, 1980, 1987 – High Magazine (GB): 1994,
1996, 1997, 1999, 2002 – “ Illimani 1980”
Campo Abierto (Quito-Ecuador) – Pyrenaica, Jul-sep
1983 - “Illimani“ By T. Ifor Rees, 1964
– “Deutsche Bergsteiger am Pico Norte,
Illimani” Mitteilungen des Alpenvereins, Sep
1950 – Alpine Journal: 1955, 1962, 1966, 1967,
1969, 1970 – “Legends of the High Andes”
Alpine Journal 1983 – Mario fantin “Le
Ande” 1979 - Club Andino Boliviano “ Informativo
Mensual” aril 1941, Mayo 1941, Jun 1941 –
“ Erwin Hein and the North ridge of Illimani,
1928” by Pieter Crow from Hein’s article
in Zdoav 1929 – E.S.G. De La Motte “Ilimani
and the Nazis”, Alpine Journal 1942 –
Erwin Hein “Allein Ueber den Illimani –
Nordgrat” ZDOAV, 1929 – Jack Miller “Illimani
‘s Northeast ridge: Reverence and Rape”
AAJ 1978.
Mountaineering Journal
Alpine Journal (AJ) vol XIX, p 241-509
note: Sir Martin Conway - Geographical Journal, may
1900 p 528-9 note: on a Map of part of the Cordillera
Real by Sir Martin Conway – PYR 158, 1990, AAJ
1983 p 47 - Illimani and Lord Conway, AJ, 1905 and
1955 p 172 – Illimani and the Nazis AJ, 1940
p 250-53 - SW face AAJ, 1986 p 196 – North Peak
by West Ridge AAJ, 1985 p 234 – North Peak North
Ridge AAJ, 1979-80 p 590 – North Peak by Noerht
Ridge AAJ, 1970-71 p 171 - South Peak, to left of
normal West Ridge route 1977 AAJ, 1979-80 p 253 -
Complete traverse AAJ, 1970-71 p 424 – Travesia
integral Sanchez Mesili 1-6/8/72 AM: 80, 83 ande High
Info…..
Sélection: Hans Ertl 1953/
1967
The Mountain World “Our Climbs
in Bolivia” 1953 p 149-70 London and Nyw York.
– Illimani, Mitteilungen des D.A.V., Sept.,
1950 p 131-5 – “Illimani, Der Bergkamerad
1951, vol XXIX p 567-8
Maps/ Mapas/ Cartes
-
The highest part of the Cordillera
Real Bolivia from a Triangulation and plane table
survey by Sir M. Conway. a.Conway, M. 1:500 000
40 x 45cm col. GJ V.15 p.564 1900 Price GBP15
-
Sketch Map of Caupolican and
adjoining portions of N. Bolivia from surveys of
G.N. Watney, J.W. Evans, etc. a.Evans, J.W. 1:750
000 33 x 41cm col. GJ V.22 p.724 1903 Price GBP8
-
Plane-Table Sketch-Survey of
the West Slope of the Cordellera Real from Illampu
to Illimani ... by Sir Martin Conway ... 1898. a
.Conway, M. c.Conway, M. [1:340 000] 16 x 56cm col.
GJ V.14 p.128 1899 Price GBP3
-
Kammverlaufsskizze der Cordillera
Real 1: 500 000 von Troll/ Hein, in Zeitschr. Des
DÖAV 1929
-
Kammverlaufsskizze der nördl.
Cordillera Real 1:150 000, 1929.
-
Troll/ Hein Nördliche Cordillera
Real 1:50 000 in: Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen,
1935.
-
Chekapa-Gruppe (nordwestl. Des
Condoriri) 1:50 000, in: “Anden-Expedition
1969 Bayrisch Naturfreunde”
-
Negruni-Tal 1:28 000. Reading
University Andean Expedition.
-
Alain Mesili: Cordillera Real.
Bolivia. Ubicación de los Nevados –
Mapa de Acceso vial a los Nevados. 1979 La Paz,
Bolivia
-
Liam O´Brian
Bernardo Guarachi
Cartes Generales
- World Map 1:2 500 000.Institut für Kartographie
Berlin/ DDR 1966.
- Mapa de Bolivia en 58 hojas, 1:2 50 000, 1949 y
1958.
- Sketch of the Country between Cochabamba and Trinidad
to illustrate Col. Lloyds Route to Chimoré.
1854. a.Lloyd c.Arrowsmith, J. [1:2 200 000] 19 x
11cm JRGS V.24 p.259 1854 Price GBP10
- Map of Part of Bolivia from the Surveys of J.B.
Minchin. A Musters, G.C. c.Weller, E. [1:850 000]
31 x 76cm col. JRGS V.47 p.201 1877 Price GBP3
- Map of Part of Bolivia, compiled from survey by
J.B. Minchin. a.Minchin, J.B. c.Sharbau, H. [1:3 600
000] 38 x 42cm col. Pro2 V.3 p.448 1881 Price P.o.a.
- Part of the Bolivian Table Land from a Trigonometrical
Survey executed ... in 1882 by J.B. Minchin. a.Minchin,
J.B. c.Sharbau, H. [1:1 100 000] 28 x 23cm col. Pro2
V.4 p.712 1882 Price P.o.a.
- The Beni River from a reduction of the Original
Surveys of Dr. Heath supplied by himself. a.Heath,
E.R. c.Sharbau, H. [1:2 900 000] 31 x 22cm Pro2 V.5
p.376 1883 Price GBP20
- Sketch Map illustrating Explorations in Bolivia
by Dr. Steinmann, Dr. Hoek & Dr. v. Bistram 1903-4.
a.Hoek, H. 1:3 000 000 30 x 23cm GJ V.25 p.588 1905
Price P.o.a.
- The River Heath and Adjacent Territory to illustrate
the paper by Major P.H. Fawcett, R.A. 1910. a. Fawcett,
P.H. 1:500 000 42 x 28cm col. GJ V.37 p.476 1911 Price
GBP25
- Bolivia. Sketch Map to illustrate the Explorations
of Major P.H. Fawcett, R.G.A. in 1913-14. a.Fawcett,
P.H. 1:3 000 000 29 x 32cm GJ V.45 p.272 1915 Price
GBP18
Informations Generales
-
Gustav Fester “ Die
Sudlichste Kordillere in Zeitsschrift DAV. 1938,
p 229-238.
- Ahlfeld, F. ‘Die Cordillera Quimsa Cruz’.
Zeit.DOeAV, 63 (1932): 79-94.
-
[Bayreuther Anden Expedition
1987.] Cordillera Quimsa Cruz Bolivien. Expedition
report, [1987]. 49p, illus, maps. Araca and Choquetanga
groups.
-
Echevarria, E. ‘Cordillera
de Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia: un Karakorum sudamericano’,
-Pyrenaica 162 (1991): 211-215.
-
Herzog, T. Bergfahrten in Sudamerika.
Stuttgart: Strecker & Schr o der, 1925. Cord.
Quimsa Cruz, Cord. Cocapata.
- Prem, J. ‘Two first ascents in the Bolivian
Andes’. AAJ, 4 (1940): 29-34. Quimsa Cruz.
Climbing in the Bolivian Andes’. AAJ, 5 (1945):
322-32. Quimsa Cruz, Santa Vera Cruz.
-
Seelig, C. ÑEin Ausflug
ins Hochland von BoliviaÒ. Jahrbuch,S.A.C.,
48 (1912): 153-82. - hellaeche, J Quimsa Cruz..
‘Viaje de exploración a la Cordillera
de Quimsa Cruz’, La Paz, Revista de Andinismo
y Excursion no.6 (1983): 13-18.
-
Whewell, R. ‘Yob’s-eye
view of the Quimsa Cruz’. AAJ, 16 (1969):
281-4.
-
Hans Ertl, Aus den Bergen
Sud-Ost Bolivias, “Zeitcsh. D.Oe.A.V”
1907 - p 121
-
H. Hoek, Besteigung des cerros
Tacora in “Osterr. Alpenzeitung” 1905
p 25.
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